Chuck-T Fabric Overlay Tutorial

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If you’d like to add a bit of your favorite fabric to your Converse, it’s pretty easy! It took me less than an hour. I’ve only finished one shoe but I was also taking pics while I was doing it so you might be able to do it in around 30 minutes. Please look through the entire tutorial before deciding if you want to proceed! I don’t want you to hold me responsible for ruining your shoes.

The shoes I did this on are really old and disgusting so I’m sorry you have to look at gross shoes. I tried to crop out the holey heel but it might have snuck in on a pic or 2. Anyway, let’s get started.

In addition to your shoes, you will need the following supplies:

  • 1/4 yd SF101 (woven interfacing)
  • 1/4 yd fabric
  • 1/8 yd Heat n Bond Lite (or a glue stick)
  • FabriTac (or other fabric glue)
  • Fray-Check (optional)

Begin by measuring the tongue of your shoe. Take your laces out, clip sides away from the tongue and measure the length between the end of the rubber toe to the tip of the tongue.

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Then measure the width at the top of the tongue. My shoes (US Women’s 9) measures 6″L x 3 3/8″ W. Now we need to add seam allowance (SA) to our measurements. Based on a 3/8″ SA, I added 3/4″ to each side, so my measurements to cut are 6 3/4″ L x 4 1/8″ W.

Based on your measurements, cut (2) pieces of fabric and (2) pieces of SF101. I cut mine at 6 3/4″ L x 4 1/8″ W. Fuse the SF101 to your fabric.

After your interfacing is fused, on the backside of your fabric pieces, mark a line 3/4″ up from the bottom.

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Press your fabric towards the line that you just drew. The bottoms of your fabric pieces should now be turned under by 3/8″.

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Topstitch 1/8″ in from the bottom edge. (Sorry I used black thread on black and it’s not really visible in the pics.)

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Now we need to prep the tongue of our shoes. Take your seam ripper and carefully remove the All-Star tag. I wanted to be able to reattach mine so that the shoes looked like they came with this fabric, but if you don’t want to reattach, you don’t have to be super careful or you could probably just leave it attached.

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Now we’re going to trace the top of our tongue so that we have a pattern piece for cutting a curve at the top of our rectangular fabric pieces. Nothing fancy, just plop your shoe down on a notebook page and trace. You don’t need to trace the entire thing, we just need the top curve.

Cut your pattern piece out.

Measure 3/8″ in from the top and side edges of your rectangles and trace the curve from your pattern piece.

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We are NOT going to be cutting on that line. We just want to use it as a guide to clip the corners. Measure 3/8″ above the curve on each side of each pattern piece.*

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*You might find it easier just to make the pattern piece 3/8″ larger and just trace that directly onto your rectangles.

Cut the edges from the top of your fabric.

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Now we’re going to use our fabric pieces and your pattern piece as a guide for cutting our Heat n Bond Lite. Trace your fabric onto your Heat n Bond. (If you’re using a glue stick instead of Heat n Bond, skip this step.) Set your pattern piece 3/8″ down from the top edge of the line you just drew and trace around it. This sounds more complicated than it is. Basically, you’re just drawing a line 3/8″ in all around the inside of the line that you just drew so that you end up with a horseshoe shape. It will be a 3/8″ wide strip that will go all around the outside edge (except for the bottom topstitched edge) of your fabric piece.

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Fuse the Heat n Bond to the edge of your fabric.

Clip notches out of the curves just in from the SA.

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If you’re using a glue stick, notch your curves and then apply a line of glue along the edges of your fabric.

Press your fabric in 3/8″.

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Now we need to get rid of the bulk from the bottom corners of our fabric. Clip or pin your fabric to your tongue and determine the amount of fabric that you need to trim from the bottom corners. The space between the sides of my shoes measured 2 1/4″.

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I measured 2 1/4″ centered on the bottom of my fabric, clipped the corners and then trimmed them.

I used the marks from my clips to cut the bottom corners off of the bottom. Then I liberally applied some Fray-Check to the raw edges. You could probably come up with something more graceful at this step but I knew those edges would be hidden behind the sides of my shoes so I just chopped them.

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If you would like to reattach your One-Star label, measure 3/8″ down from the top edge of your fabric and mark a horizontal line.

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Zigzag stitch the edges of your labels.

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Clip your prepared fabric to the tongue of your shoe.

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Shove your shoe underneath your presser foot.

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Zigzag stitch all around the edge of the tongue.

Now we have that bottom bit in front of the rubber toe that we were unable to stitch. I decided to glue mine down but you could handstitch if you’re feeling saucy.

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Mmm…glue.

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Press that glue with a hot iron. Lace your shoes up.

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Get out and show the world your new kicks.

 

The Window Shopper Tote

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This bag pattern was designed by Mrs H for the February Bag of the Month Club 2016. It’s a large tote with plenty of pockets and unique grommet handles. Janelle of Emmaline Bags asked me to write a tutorial for insertion of her screw-in grommet handles, so I thought that I would detail some of the steps of making the Window Shopper Tote while I was making it.

I took some pictures of grommet installation, and turning the bag through the zipper pocket. I also took a few pictures of making the zipper bridge, since zippers can be intimidating.

Some of the cutting that I did differently was the gusset, zipper pocket, and strap tabs. I had directional fabric for my lining gusset, so I wanted it to be right side up on both sides. I added a seam allowance to the bottom of the gusset pattern piece and cut 2 rather than cutting on the fold. Since I’m turning though the zippered pocket, I cut 2 zippered pocket pieces and used a larger zipper. I used a 9″ zipper and cut (2) fabric at 11″ W x 7″ H. The strap tabs I cut at 4 1/2″ W x 3 1/4″ H.

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The lining slip pocket (H) will be cut at the same size as the pattern states (10″W x 14″H).

Zipper Bridge

The lining consists of the Lining Main (E), the Zip Bridge (J), and the Lining Top (I).

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The zipper bridge gets sandwiched between the lining top and the lining bottom. The lining top is deep enough to accommodate the grommet handles. If you were to leave off the grommet handles, you would want to make the lining top shallower so that you didn’t lose depth in your bag. (You’d have to make sure to add the same amount that you subtracted from the lining top to the lining bottom so that the lining’s entire height matched the exterior’s.) But I digress, let’s make the zipper bridge.

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You should have a zipper, 4 rectangular pieces of interfaced fabric, and a zipper end. If you don’t have a metal zipper end, you’ll need to make a zipper tab. I have the glue and the screw driver for my metal zipper tab, so you won’t need those things if you’re making a fabric zipper tabs. You’ll notice that my zipper is too long and that it’s a separating zipper. That’s okay – I am going to cut it down so it doesn’t matter that it’s too long and is separating. I never have the right length zipper, so I usually just cut longer ones shorter.

The first thing that I do to make my zipper bridge is turn the ends of my fabric under. I mark a 1/2″ line in from each of the short ends on the wrong side of all 4 fabric pieces and press to that line (the fabric will be turned under by 1/4″). When I turn my fabric under, I just do this step for all of the pieces in my bag that need finished ends. In this case, I did it for the: zippered pocket (only if you’re turning your bag through the pocket), the adjustable strap, the zipper bridge pieces, and the strap tabs.

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After your zipper bridge ends are turned under, we’re going to prepare our zipper. Sew the zipper to itself at a 45º angle on both sides at the beginning of your zipper tape. This is so that the zipper has a clean line going into the fabric and isn’t just kind of plonked in.

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The zipper will be sandwiched between both pieces of fabric on each side but we’ll baste one piece of fabric first instead of trying to sew through all 3 layers at once. This is so that the layers don’t shift and you get a nice, clean seam.The tip of the angle on your zipper should just touch the corner of the zipper bridge fabric (upper left in picture where the first neon clip is). Make sure you sew with your zipper on the top side. If you sew with the fabric side up, it’s not as thick as the zipper so it won’t feed evenly.

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At an 1/8″ seam allowance (SA), baste the top piece of fabric right side together (RST) with the zipper. Start and stop your sewing 1/8″ in from the short ends. This will start the seam within the turned fabric and won’t take the stitching all the way to the end so that it gives a clean edge on your zipper bridge.

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After you’ve basted the top layer of fabric to your zipper, we’re going to sew all 3 layers together at a 1/4″ SA. Align the bottom fabric RST with the bottom of the zipper tape. Make sure your top and bottom fabric layers are the same length. If they’re not, adjust the length of the bottom fabric by changing the width of the turned under fabric ends so that it’s the same length as the top fabric. Make sure you put on your zipper foot to sew the zipper at 1/4″ SA so that the zipper teeth don’t push on your presser foot and give you a wobbly seam.

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After your 3 layers are sewn together, pull the fabric away from the zipper tape and pin the fabric layers wrong side together. You will have to get a little bossy with the fabric so that all of the edges are aligned properly. I clip the inner corners that meet the zipper because they’re a little thick and need to be just right so that no raw edges show.

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After you’ve pinned your zipper panel, we’ll topstich the layers together. There will be one raw edge that will get sandwiched in between the top and bottom lining layers. Baste stitch the raw edge closed.

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Repeat the above steps for the other side of your zipper bridge. You might find it easier to do the same steps for both sides at the same time. I just did one side at a time so that it would be less confusing in the pictures.

To finish your zipper bridge, we’ll need to finish the end of the zipper. If necessary, cut your zipper to the proper length. I cut mine with a pinking blade and treat it with seam sealant to prevent fraying.

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Fold the edges of your zipper tape in towards the back of your zipper. I dab a bit of glue on the ends of mine and shove it into the metal zipper end. And then I dip my screw into the glue that splooged everywhere after I opened the tube and screw it into place.

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Phew! The zipper bridge is finished!

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I went ahead and basted mine at an 1/8″ SA to my lining tops so that I could just set it aside and deal with less pieces.

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After you’ve finished your lining pockets, you can attach the lining top to the lining main.

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Turning Through the Zippered Pocket

To prepare the zippered pocket to turn your bag through, we’ll need finished edges on the bottom of the pocket, so that we can have a clean seam. Make a mark 1″ in, on the wrong side, from the long bottom edge. Press your fabric to the mark. This will turn your fabric under by a 1/2″.

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Tip: You’ll notice in my picture that my interfacing on my zippered pockets is pieced. I leave a basket of SF101 scraps on my cutting table and use them for lining pockets and straps so that I don’t waste interfacing.

For all of my zippered pockets, I like to have an inch on each side of the zipper. So I mark 1″ in from the sides and the top and make a 1/2″ zipper box.

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I placed my zippered pocket piece centered and 3.5″ down from the top of the main lining piece.

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After I’ve sewn and slit open my zipper box, I press the seams open before turning. It’s easier to get a clean edge that way.

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To position my zipper, I take a piece of parchment paper and put a bit of fabric glue along the very edges of the zipper tape.

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Then I lay the lining panel right over top of it.

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Then I press it with a hot, dry iron and make sure not to get the iron over the zipper teeth. I press from the back, over the parchment paper so that I don’t get any glue on my iron.

After you’ve sewn your zipper in, take your other zipper lining piece and pin it RST with the sewn in piece.

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We’re only going to sew 3 edges of the zippered pocket pieces together. The bottom edge will be left open for turning the bag. I find it easier to sew from the side of the pocket that touches the bag panel. You just have to push the panel out of the way.

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Begin sewing 1/8″ in from one bottom corner and stop sewing an 1/8″ in from the opposite bottom corner.

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It’s very important to leave your zipper pocket OPEN. You will be turning the bag through this hole.

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Once your bag is finished, you can turn it through the zipper pocket by reaching your hand up through the bottom and pulling the bag through the zippered opening all the way down through the pocket.

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Once your bag is turned, clip the bottom edges of your zippered pocket together and sew right along the bottom edge to fully enclose the zippered pocket.

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After the bottom edge is sewn, push it into the pocket and topstitch your bag. By turning your bag through the zippered pocket, you don’t have any exposed seams in the lining.

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Grommet Connector Tabs

I like the idea of grommet connectors for this bag because I think that they go well with the grommet handles. They’re also cheaper than triangle rings (although, I do love triangle rings). To begin, I cut my tabs slightly shorter and a bit wider than the pattern calls for. I cut them at 4 1/2″ W x 3 1/4″ H. The extra width accounts for the diameter of the grommets that I used and the shorter height is because the tabs in the pattern get folded over the triangle rings, and we won’t be folding our tabs.

Finish your strap tabs according to the pattern. (They will just be a slightly different size but they are finished the same way.)

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The first step in installing grommets is to make a hole the same size as the inner diameter of your grommet. Center a grommet on your strap tab 1/4″ down from the finished edge. Trace the inner circle.

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Use scissors to cut the hole. Alternatively, you can use a punch to make the hole. I was lucky and had a proper sized punch that I got in a cheap punch set from China that I ordered for turn lock installation awhile back.

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After you’ve made holes in both of your strap tabs, treat the raw fabric edges with seam sealant.

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Now it’s time to install the grommets. You need a manual grommet setter or grommet press to install them. You can get a manual grommet setter in a kit from the craft store with extra grommets for >$10. With the manual grommet setter, I would definitely practice on scraps the same thickness as your strap tabs before you go to install them in your finished tab. You may find that there isn’t enough thickness for the grommets and they don’t close all of the way. In this case, you can add a layer of fusible fleece when you’re making your strap tabs.

This is what the manual setter looks like. There’s a bottom portion underneath the strap tab and then you hammer the end of the post to set the grommet.

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If you think that you will be using grommets frequently, I would highly recommend getting a press. I got this press, 3 dies*, and 1,500 grommets shipped for $50. If you were to buy that many grommets at the craft store, it would cost you over $50. (Everything I got for that price pictured below. I don’t remember the exact seller but you can search amazon or ebay to compare pricing.)

*The dies are what go into the press and fit different sized grommets.

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The tab on the left has the backside of the grommet facing up and the tab on the right is the front of the grommet.

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After you have your grommets set in your tabs, attach them to your bag per the pattern.

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Finished Window Shopper Tote

Sorry this post kind of jumped around a bit. I just wanted to share areas of the pattern that I tweaked or areas that I thought people might like to see more pictures of. I hope that you found this helpful!

Good Hair Day!

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I knew that I had to make a toiletry pouch from Kim Andersson’s Good Hair Day collection fabric. I think I’ve been having a bad hair day for about 4 years now but at least I can have a cute toiletry pouch. The pattern I used is the Jade Pouch by Blue Calla. I love its flap and handle.

I made a couple of simple changes to it to personalize it – a fabric zipper pull and accented handle.

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Fabric Zipper Pull

To make a fabric zipper pull, you’ll need: a lobster clasp, a split ring, and a scrap of fabric. I found the lobster clasp and split ring at the craft store in the jewelry-making section. They’re a bit hard to see in the picture below; the split ring is 1″ down from the top of the fabric. Cut your fabric scrap to 3/4″ x 5″. If your fabric scrap is a bit shorter than 5″, that’s fine. You’ll only lose 1/2″ in length when making it.

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On the wrong side of your fabric, mark 1/2″ in from both short ends.

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Press each end in toward the 1/2″ mark. Your fabric should be pressed in 1/4″ from each short end. You can always just press your fabric in a 1/4″ without marking a 1/2″ in but I like to have the line as a guide. I always find myself fumbling with the pressing ruler when I’m trying to iron something this tiny.

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This part is tedious. If you have a bias tape maker, that would probably be easier, but I have never mastered those. Anyway, take your fabric and mark and center line from the long edge and press the raw edges in towards that line. Then press the folded edge toward the center again. You should have a piece that’s 4 1/2″ long x 1/4″ wide.

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All raw edges should be enclosed. Topstitch down the length of the strip.

Take your split ring, and open one of the ends. I normally use the tip of my seam ripper to open it. There’s probably a safer way to do this, as I usually stab myself with this method. After your split ring is pried open, slide in the lobster clasp. Once your lobster clasp is attached to your split ring, push your topstitched zipper pull fabric through the center of the split ring and tie it in a tight knot.

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Yay! Your zipper pull is done. I like fabric zipper pulls because they can be made to match any project. They’re a little bit fiddly but they add a nice touch to handmade projects.

Accented Handle

You will need a main fabric, accent fabric, woven interfacing (SF101), and fabric glue (or glue stick). Instead of following the Jade cutting instructions for the handle, cut:

  • 2″ x 7″ piece of main fabric
  • 2″ x 7″ piece of SF101
  • 1″ x 7″ piece of accent fabric

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Fuse the SF101 to the main fabric. Mark a line down the center of the interfaced side of the fabric and use your iron to press the sides in to the center line that you just marked. Mark a line down the wrong side of the accent fabric and press* the raw edges towards the center line, (same as you did with the interfaced fabric).

*Sometimes it can be difficult to get non-interfaced fabric to press. You can use a bit of spray starch to get a crisper press.

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You should now have a 1″ x 7″ piece and a 1/2″ x 7″ piece.

Take your 1″ x 7″ piece and topstitch an 1/8″ in from the folded edge. The top of the handle will end up being the side with raw edges facing up.

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I also topstitched my accent piece at this step to prevent shifting when I sewed it to the main fabric, but if you don’t like stitching over existing stitches, skip this step. The top of the accent piece will be the side with no raw edges. Topstitch as close to the edge as you can.

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I like to glue the accent piece to the main fabric to prevent shifting. You can always use clips or pins, but I find they get in my way when I’m trying to topstich and I end up shifting my accent piece. Take your main fabric, with raw edges up and run a bit of glue right down the center where the raw edges meet. Center your accent fabric, raw edges down, on top of the main fabric. Press with a hot, dry iron.

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After the handle strip has cooled, follow the existing stitches on the accent piece, and topstitch down to main fabric.

Follow the handle instructions in the Jade pattern for attaching.

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Thanks for reading! If you add a fabric zipper pull to your project, I’d love to see it; tag me on Instagram

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GIVEAWAY!!! To win a charm pack of Good Hair Day fabric, leave a blog post comment and let me know what you’re working on. I’ll notify the winner via email at the end of the blog hop.

 

Lone Star Baby Quilt and Machine Binding Tutorial

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I had a request for a baby quilt for a baby girl but the quilt was to be more neutral. I love the Zephyr collection by Rashida Coleman-Hale of Cotton+Steel. It’s fresh and modern and has a great color scheme.  I wasn’t sure what pattern to use, so I looked at my Pinterest board at all of the quilts that I pinned that would probably never make. I saw the Lone Star quilt and knew it would work perfectly, as it’s a great size (~40″ x 40″) for a baby quilt and is a modern twist on a traditional pattern, which I tend to be drawn to.  I followed the tutorial on Diary of a Quilter and used a Zephyr fabric layer cake to make the quilt top. Her tutorial is free and easy-to-follow.

I decided to take several photos while I was binding the quilt because I know it’s most people’s most dreaded part of making a quilt. (Disclaimer: I have an aversion to hand sewing, so the method I use is completely on the machine. Also, there are a ton of combinations and techniques for quilt binding. This is just the method that I’ve found works best for me.)

After you have your bias tape cut and sewn in a long strip, (I cut mine at 2.25″ wide.) fold it in half wrong sides together. So you should have 1 long strip of single-fold bias tape that is 1 1/8″ wide. Lay your quilt sandwich face down, so that the backing is facing you and place the raw edges of your bias tape against the raw edges of your quilt sandwich.

attach binding to back    When attaching my binding, I start at the bottom center of my quilt so that the binding seam ends up there.

When I get to the corners, I pull the binding up and fold it back on itself and leave that extra there so that I can easily make mitered corners. mitered corner mitered corner 2

Before I begin sewing the binding, I clip* it all the way around the quilt, doing each of the 4 corners as pictured above. I leave tails on both sides so that I have extra to work with when I’m finishing the binding at the end seam.

binding all the way around*Wonder Clips aren’t necessary but they’re definitely the handiest way to attach binding. I’ve found they’re cheapest on Amazon; you can also use binder clips.

sewing binding

Start sewing your binding a few inches in from the bottom center with a 1/4″ seam allowance (SA). I use blue painter’s tape to mark it on my machine, since I switch SAs a lot and I think it’s easier to sew a straight line with a bold marking to pay attention to.

A couple inches before you get to your first corner, stop with your needle down. You’re going to pull back the excess fabric in your corner and mark or eyeball a 45º angle to the corner from your 1/4″ SA. You’re going to sew straight down that mark, making sure to backstitch.

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After sewing your angle and backstitching, pull the bit of excess fabric back against the angled stitch line and begin sewing a 1/4″ in from both edges on the other side.

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When both sides of the corner have been stitched, it should look like this:

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When the fabric is folded to the front of the quilt, you will automatically have a perfectly mitered corner from the tricky stitching that you did.

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For some reason, that grumpy cloud is judging my mitered corner. Whatever, cloud.

You’ll continue around the back of your quilt, stopping at the corner to make your mitered corner stitching. Once you’re almost back to your starting point (bottom center), stop leaving ~6″ between the edges. You should have binding tails on each side. In the next step, we’ll get them to be the perfect length with no bulking seams.

Getting the binding to be the exact length that you need can be a bit tricky. I tried to take several pictures to show how I do it. You can also fold one end in and tuck the other end inside of the folded edge but that leaves a noticeable seam and a bit of bulk. The first thing I do is to finger press each side of the bias tape at opposite 90º angles from each other. You can see that I left a bit of room between each piece and they’re not exactly touching. That’s because bias is a bit stretchy, so to avoid puckering, I make it slightly shorter than the actual length. finger press bias

The arrows are showing the 2 points that you’re going to want to mark with a Frixion pen (or other temporary mark).

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Once you’ve marked the 2 dots, you’re going to bring the 2 bias ends together at those points and make an X. So your bias strips will be right sides together, meeting at the mark that you just made.

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Pin the bias tape together so that the pins are parallel with the bias strip that is wrong side facing you. You’ll want them positioned this way so that you can draw a line in the next step. In the second image above, you can see that I’ve clipped the quilt behind the binding, that way it’s not pulling on the bias and it’s out of the way.

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Draw a line connecting the 2 intersecting points of the bias. This line will be parallel to the quilt edge.

sew your line

Sew directly over the line that you just drew. If you’re not sewing parallel with the edge of the quilt, you may have drawn your line connecting the wrong points. This is the easiest part to get turned around on.

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Before pressing and trimming your seam that you have just sewn, turn the bias strip over to make sure you have the proper length. If your length looks good, press your seam and trim off your excess bias. Then sew the remaining length of the bias to the back of the quilt.

Once the binding is sewn to the backing, flip your quilt over. Pull the bias to the front of the quilt and sew closely to the edge of the binding. Take it slowly, you’re almost done and these are the stitches that will show the most.

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I should have taken more photos to show the front of the binding, but I think getting everything right when attaching the binding to the back is the most difficult part, so hopefully that made sense.

The only thing left to do on my quilt is to handstitch on the custom label that I ordered from Spoonflower. You can order a sample swatch from Spoonflower for $6 shipped, so you can get (4) 4″ x 4″ labels for $1.50/each.

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Carry-All Pincushion

IMG_2914I love the book Handmade Style by Anna Graham of Noodlehead Patterns. There are so many projects in it, all of which I would like to eventually make. The Carry-All Pincushion is the second pattern that I’ve made from the book.

This pattern was super easy to follow. One thing that is interesting about Anna’s patterns is that most of the pieces initially cut are rectangles, even if the final shape has some curved edges. She gives you stitch guides on the pieces. At first, I was a bit thrown off by this, as it’s different from other patterns, but I’ve grown to really like that style. It’s easier to fussy cut your piece and be more accurate, since you’re not distracted by the curve while you’re cutting. I traced my stitch guide onto a piece of waxed paper, iron it to the rectangular piece and then use a Frixion* pen to mark the stitch line and sew directly over the line that I have drawn. IMG_2916

*Frixion pens can be found in the office supply aisle at Target or similar retailer. They’re heat erasable, so they’re perfect for sewing projects as you can iron away your lines when you’re done. I usually only use them on light colored fabrics because they can leave behind a whitish line on darker fabrics.

I didn’t have any crushed walnut shells like the pattern calls for, so I used Poly-Pellets to weigh my pincushion down. I’m definitely going to be making more of these, so I’ll probably try to find crushed walnut shells for my next one. (Make sure if you’re giving a pincushion as a gift and you use crushed walnut shell to tell the recipient in case they have any allergies.)

IMG_2920 I’m currently working on a custom baby quilt and I’m really excited about how it’s turning out so far. I’ll write my next post when I’m finished quilting and binding. Happy Hump Day!

Lantana Shoulder Bag

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This past week I tested the Lantana Shoulder Bag for Blue Calla Creations.  The Lantana pattern calls for a method of attaching the straps in a way I have never seen before, so I knew that I wanted to spend a little extra time making the straps looking sexy. (Straps can totally be sexy.) I had a charm pack (5″ x 5″ squares) that I decided would work perfectly.

Since the squares were 5″ wide, the straps ended up a 1/4″ wider than the pattern calls for. With this bag, since there’s no hardware needed, I didn’t need to make any alterations. If you were to use a charm pack for making straps on a bag that required hardware, you would need to take that into consideration. For instance, if you were making a bag that called for 1″ straps, you could either cut the width of the squares down to 4″ or purchase hardware that was 1.25″ wide. In the case of needing 1″ straps, it may be easier to cut the squares down to 4″, since 1.25″ hardware can be a bit difficult to find.

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The Lantana has an inner slip pocket and I had some charm squares leftover from making the straps, I decided to feature one on the pocket.

My next project is a pincushion from Anna Graham’s book Handmade Style. I’m still trying to decide on fabrics for that one.